Friday, July 1, 2016

DESTINATION: CUBA

DESTINATION:  CUBA
 
So, you want to go where few have gone before (legally) in the past 50 years . . . .


The goal has been on our minds for years, and this past February/March, 2016 we were able to realize our dream.  My wife, Renne’, and I are cruising live-aboards on our sailboat, “JonNe”, based at a Key West marina. The Southernmost Point of the United States is marked by a multi-colored concrete-encased buoy indicating the distance from Key West to Cuba of only 90 miles.  When you consider the closeness, you immediately know why activity there, for the United States Navy, was hot and heavy during the Kennedy Years and the famed Bay of Pigs!

On the other hand, without a single WalMart in all of the Florida Keys, it is more surprising that it is farther from our marina to the nearest WalMart , at 112 miles, than it is to Havana.  It really drives home the fact that we are very close at hand to our nearest neighbors.

In October, 2015, with the relaxation of restrictions by the Obama Administration we became serious about traveling to Cuba in 2016. We want to get south as soon as possible, before hordes of boats from the United States destroy the charm and uniqueness of this Caribbean jewel.

I spent hours researching how to get there, what requirements to meet, what permissions to acquire, and where to go.  We have heard  Cuba is not anywhere near ready to handle the volume of boats expected to descend upon it in the next few years.  With that, we filed for our license through the Department of Commerce (DOC) for permission to go.

While preparing to leave Key West and driving back to Kemah, Texas, a seminar was scheduled on Saturday, November 6th, sponsored by the Fort Lauderdale Boat Show, located in the Swimming Hall of Fame, on the topic of travel to Cuba by boat, put on by the maritime law firm, Moore & Company[i], and presented by the Principal Owner, Michael Moore.

Upon arrival, we met Lisa Greenberg-Ferrero, Principal Owner of Pacific Bound Yachts, specializing in managing the bureaucratic and regulatory issues involved in international luxury yacht travel.  Discussing our DOC filing , she informed us the need to file had been discontinued.  Needless to say, we were surprised and a bit suspicious of the comment.   She informed us about her business, and  her extensive knowledge of regulatory affairs.   We entered the seminar with a focus on  finding out the MAJOR stumbling blocks in going to Cuba.

So this is what we found out!  She was correct! 

On December 3, 2015, we received the following confirmation from the Department of Treasury, Office of Foreign Assets Control:

“To the extent that the proposed travel transactions described in your request fall within the scope of one of the above-referenced general license provisions, you may proceed without further authorization from OFAC.”

Therefore,  travel to Cuba by boat (recreational or commercial) is approved without premise as long as boaters fall within the twelve categories.   However, general tourism is STILL restricted!

Below are the twelve categories stipulated by the Office of Foreign Asset Control (OFAC), Cuba; Section 515.560[ii]:

      1)     Family Visits
      2)     Official Business of the US Government
      3)     Journalistic Activity
      4)     Professional Research and Professional Meetings 
      5)     Educational Activities
      6)     Religious Activities
      7)     Public Performances, Clinics, Workshops, Athletic and Other Competitions and Exhibitions
      8)     Support of the Cuban People
      9)     Humanitarian Projects
      10)  Activities of Private Foundations or Research or Educational Institutes
      11)  Exportation, Importation, or Transmission of Information or Informational Materials
      12)  Certain Export Transactions

Failure of falling into one of these categories may result in a fine. It is important to document your travels.  One of the recommendations is to keep a log for five years of the 5 W’s:

1     1)   Who you see
2     2)   What your purpose was
3     3)   Where you traveled to
4     4)   When you traveled there
5     5)   Why you traveled there


The only paper requirements for entry into Cuba as of this publication are:
1)   A valid passport with at least 6 months remaining in validity
      2)   Two blank pages available for the entry visa
     3)   Coast Guard form CG-3300 Application For Permit To Enter Cuban Territorial Seas[iii]


Insurance

Finding a company to get boat and/or heath insurance though has not easy.  While we found it difficult to locate a company that would insure us, however, we have found Kevin Severence Insurance, (281)-333-3100.  There are no amendments to your normal coverage, so it might be best to coordinate your new coverage with the expiration date of your existing coverage.

Living Expenses

All living expenses related to your specific category are permitted.  As an American, however, domestic credit cards cannot be processed, as there is no bank in the U.S. that has a current fiduciary arrangement with Cuba.  Therefore, all transactions have to be carried out in cash.  However, no U.S. currency is permitted to be traded for products or services in Cuba.  In fact, there is an 18% tax by the Cuban Government in addition to the cost of the transaction – and that goes for both the sell and the buy in exchanging currency.

So, an alternative might be to convert American currency to one that can easily be used in Cuba.  As Americans are the only citizens that are currently restricted, world currencies such as the Euro or Canadian Dollars, easily converted at most American banks, would be appropriate.  Check the conversion rates available and make your decision based on the exchange rate that makes the most sense.

Two currencies exist in Cuba:  One local and one for foreign travelers.  The Cuban National Peson (CUP) is what local workers are paid.  The CUP is the currency used to buy basic staples (food, clothes, and other products used in local households).  We chose to purchase some CUPs so we could shop in local stores predominately frequented by Cuban residents.  We ended the two weeks with the same amount we began with (see next paragraph), so we used the CUPs as tips for people around the marina.

The second currency, the Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC), is the luxury currency reserved for use with foreigners to Cuba.  All transactions by for tourists were in this currency.  We found it didn't matter what the purchase (food, entertainment, etc.) was.  Expenses like marina costs, higher end restaurants, repair goods and services, imported products, as well as medical care are examples where the CUC is the preferred currency. As the exchange rate is far better than that of the CUP, NOONE wanted currency other than CUCs.

One suggestion – Take sufficient cash for purchases, services, goods, AND contingencies!  There is NO place to get cash if you run out!  No ATM’s, no bank advances, or check cashing privileges. 

In consideration that Americans are new visitors to Cuba, courtesy should be the norm when dealing with Cuban citizens.  You have all heard stories of what we call “Ugly Americans”.  These citizens tend to believe that Americans know all there is, and if language barriers, customs, or traditions cause frustration, they tend to become obnoxious and less than positive representatives of who Americans really are.  Recommendations for courteous behavior begin with:

1) Don’t expect everyone to speak English.  In Havana, you are likely to find a few individuals who speak some semblance of English.  Outside of the city expect few people to speak it.
2) Learn some basic Spanish phrases prior to arriving.  Good morning, afternoon, evening, or night; Thank you, please, You’re welcome; Where is the bathroom, hotel, marina, etc.; all are appropriate.
3)  1)   Carry a Spanish/English dictionary.  Most residents want to see us trying to communicate in their native language.  We found a book called "Spanish for Cruisers" an exceptional aid in communicating.
4)  TRY!
5)  Remember certain portions of the Boy Scout Oath – Be Helpful, Courteous, Kind, Cheerful, and Considerate.  These will take you a long way in any country you are visiting!
6)  Maintain a LOW profile!  Try NOT to stand out for any reason.
7)  Don't raise suspicions.  No Photographing harbors, military or military facilities, police, or government buildings.
8)  Remember, the Cuban people want you there!  The Cuban government is much less excited than you would think to have you there.  They want your cash, that is it!  It is the American government that is a bit on guard as these privileges are expanded.
9)  Know something about the country before you arrive. The Cuba Cruising Guide is available at no charge from Free Cruising Guides (iv)
10) Their current drive rates are LOW!  However, as Americans really begin finding reasons to visit Cuba, that will CHANGE!  One lady commented that the reason Cuba has a low crime rate is because they have no guns.  My thought is because NOONE wants to go to prison!  The prisons are horrible, the food is horrible, your treatment is horrible, and you won't be going home ANYTIME SOON!

Transportation


Taxi’s are available in tourist and commercial areas.  The  licensed taxi’s are usually clean and reliable.  The American Antique Cars usually all are for hire, usually by an independent driver.  We made significant use of these.  They were fun to ride in, albeit, there was little suspension, all engines for the most part are diesels, and gas tanks may be under your seat, behind you, or in the engine compartment!  It is recommended to beware of sharing any information with the driver and strangers, and know where you want to go.  A little preplanning of your activities goes a long way.  Be prepared to negotiate your fare before you get in to the taxi.  We found a fare of 1 CUC per kilometer to be reasonable, however prices may have gone up since March, 2016 when we were there.  

Caution:  You WILL run into men called "Hinjeros".  These are the hucksters.  If you look like you are confused or a bit timid, you can be guaranteed they will come up beside you and promise to find what you want (for a price!!).  Most often, find the taxi, cigars, food, or alcohol YOURSELVES.  It could cost you a great deal to bargain through them.  We found a taxi offered at 75 CUCs to transport four of us into Havana through a Hinjero, but only cost us 10 CUC by bargaining for the price ourselves.

Buses come in two categories.  The buses designated for travel within or between cities appear appropriate.  The buses are plush, comfortable, and clean.  These buses are brand new, imported from China, and are top of the line.  The public buses should be avoided.  They are called Guaguas and you will know the difference immediately.

Medical Care

Medical care in Cuba does not meet American Standards.  Don’t expect it.  If you can wait, realize, medical care is available in Key West approximately 100 miles north of Havana.  If the patient can wait, depart the marina and proceed directly to Lower Keys Medical Center[v].  Alert the Coast Guard on Channel 16 if you feel it is necessary.

If the patient can’t wait for treatment, foreigners are directed to Circa Central Hospital.  Doctors and nurses are considered to be competent, but don’t expect U.S. quality.  Another consideration is an Air Ambulance service that will fly a patient out of Havana to Miami. 
Located in Fort Lauderdale, AirMed Air Ambulance Services already have privileges to fly in and out of the country.  Membership is currently $385.00 per year, per person[vi].  Reasonable even for only two weeks, as it covers anywhere, anytime for the year.

Remember, all transactions for medical care are in CUC and paid in CASH!

Medications/Health Hazards

As with all international travel, bring any prescriptions in the original container with YOUR name on it, the name of the prescription, and the prescribing physicians name and number.  For added protection, bring a letter from the prescribing physician(s) with an explanation for the need for the prescription .  Do NOT rely on pillboxes or sealed plastic bags.  Do NOT expect to find your medications available in pharmacies in Cuba.  Bring sufficient medications to last through possible unexpected delays.

Currently, there are no health hazards that are causing epidemics in Cuba.  However, some diseases may still affect you, and care should be taken to avoid certain maladies.

    1)   Diarrhea is common among travelers.  Scrupulous hand washing and use of hand sanitizers are strongly recommended.  The highest risk is through contaminated food and water.  Choose foods and beverages carefully.  Eat only foods that are cooked completely and served hot.  Avoid foods sitting out on buffet tables and raw vegetables and fruits unless YOU have washed them in fresh, clean water.  Also, drink only beverages in factory sealed containers to ensure cleanliness.
    2)   Dengue Fever is a mosquito borne illness with NO known treatment.  Symptoms include fever; rash; severe headache and joint, muscle, and bone pain.  Avoidance and prevention is the key to avoiding this debilitating disease.  Prevent mosquito bites by using a good mosquito repellent containing 20-30% DEET, picaridin, or oil of lemon.
    3)   Zika Virus is showing up in all areas of the Caribbean and Southern states of the United States.  If you are pregnant, check with authorities to determine if there is an issue in Cuba
    4)  Cholera is transmitted through food and water contaminated by fecal matter.  Avoid ice and drinks from street vendors and water from the municipal water supplies, raw vegetables and fruit grown in water containing human waste, and raw or undercooked fish and seafood from contaminated water. Dehydration is the biggest concern.  Get medical treatment if symptoms persist.
    5)   Rabies is a virus transmitted from bites and scratches from dogs, cats, rats, and bats.  Other mammals may also be carriers, but all contact with suspicious animals MUST be taken seriously! Treatment should ONLY be sought in the U.S.

The last issues involve THE LAW

Remember!!

1)   NO WEAPONS
2)   NO DRUGS
3)   NO HELPING MIGRANTS OUT OF THE COUNTRY
4)   NO DEVIANT SEXUAL BEHAVIOR
5)   Recreational equipment must be in keeping with the original category of intent.  i.e., why do you have SCUBA equipment if you are here to teach.
6)   Expect dog sniffing of your boat on entrance and exit from the country
7)   NO PHOTOGRAPHY of military or police installations or personnel, harbor, rail, or airport facilities.
8)   If you are a Cuban National – DON’T GO!
9)   You are allowed to take back $400 in merchandise, of which, only $100 may be alcohol or tobacco.

Other links of interest:




[i] http://moore-and-co.com
[ii] https://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/CFR-2012-title31-vol3/pdf/CFR-2012-title31-vol3-sec515-560.pdf
[iii] https://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/cg531/CG3300.pdf
[iv] http://freecruisingguides.com/free-cruising-guides/cuba/
[v] http://www.lkmc.com
[vi] http://airmed.com/Membership.aspx

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