Little Harbor to Spanish Wells

May 26-30, 2012

When we left Little Harbor, Abacos, Art and Brenda were listening to the local net on the VHF, based out of Marsh Harbor.  They first give the weather locally and then take observations from around the Abacos for boats and businesses to get an idea of what each community is seeing outside their windows as far as winds, surf, and rain is concerned.  As Pete's Pub responded, Art heard Pete state he had seen two sailboats depart the anchorage and head out into the Northwest Providence Channel, and they were doing fine.  He was referring to the condition of the swells that might impede progress (they can be pretty brutal under certain circumstances).  That was us!

The above picture is the last of the coast of the Abacos as we departed the inlet to Little Harbor. 

Winds were 20kts from the South, so once again, we were headed directly into the wind for 50nm!!  ARGGH!  What was interesting to me was the depth.  We traveled over areas that were 15,000 feet deep.  When we arrived at Spanish Wells Harbor, we still had 6,000 feet below us a mile off shore.

When we arrived at Royal Island Harbor, we had read it had been the site of a $120 Million project by Roger Staubach and Emmett Smith (Former Dallas Cowboys) as Venture Capitalists to build a 5-Star resort and Golf Course-that was 10 years ago.  It failed miserably!  The still, however, have a guard that monitors the property. 

We were there one night.  Art and Brenda decided not to stay there and moved across the bay to Jacks Bluff Settlement.  We joined them on the 27th.

We were 2.2nm from Spanish Wells and the four of us decided to take the dinghy trip over to see the town.  We decided right there we would do what ever we could to avoid a 2.2nm trip in the dinghy again!  It sure seems to be a VERY LONG WAY!

Spanish Wells is very definately a fishing village.  It is often the first stop south from the Abacos and the last stop north for boaters heading for the Abacos and on to return to the US at the end of the season.

We spent lunch talking with some younger local residents.  These fishing boats go out for six weeks at a time diving for "crawfish" - actually spiny lobsters.  The divers descend to 100 feet free diving in all weather.  Not something I could do!!

We spent the next day at Jack's Bluff.  The settlement has been in existance for 100 years, however, it was the base for the laborers who worked on the resort and golf course across the harbor.

From Bluff Settlement, we motored back around the harbor to Current Cut.  This is one of three inlets for transiting from the Northwest Providence Channel to Eleuthra Sound.  At maximum, the current flows at about 5kts.  We anchored off the shoreline about 1/2nm from the mouth of the inlet and a hundred yards off the shore.

We asked a local lady for directions to a store.  It turned out to be a new friend, Tonja Hammond, from Waco, Texas.  Her husband is a local physician in Texas, and she was finishing her vacation. 

 She was gracious enough to take the four of us to Elvina's to listen to local muscians, however, it was not to be.  So we went on to Hatchett Bay for dinner.  Shoot, it was a 60 minute car ride from the boat that night.  We had a ball.  Sundowners were great though!

The next morning, we departed just prior to slack tide to get through Current Cut with the current just slightly against us.  That was good, as it provided resistance and improved our steering ability.  I would NOT have wanted to do that with a stronger opposing current.

So on to Hatchett Bay, and from there Rock Sound Harbor.  Cya when we get there!

JonNe'



Little Harbor, Abacos

May 25-26

We moved south from Hopetown to Little Harbor.

 This is a remote community on the north shore of the Northwest Providence Channel.  Randolph Johnston arrived here in 1951 and built his home and bronze lost wax foundry here.  It really hasn't changed that much since then, except to add a few additional houses here and Pete's Pub!  We anchored outside of the harbor because it is too shallow for JonNe' to enter. 

So it was back to the dinghy for both boats.  We arrived at Pete's Pub just in time to order dinner at the pig roast.  We do enjoy these!  First Nipper's, then here! 

And of course there is never a shortage of our favorite drinks:  Kahlik Beer for me and Vodka, water, and cranberry juice for Renne'!

The historical significance of this place is the foundry started by Randolph Johnston and carried on by his son, Peter.  Both have been exceptionally talented artists:

 Pouring the castings

Castings being cooled and stored

They talk about the white beaches, but to be honest with you, we didn't find much other than coral.  It really didn't beckon us to stay very long.

On the morning of the 26th, we departed the Abacos headed south to Spanish Wells and Eleuthra.  We will look forward to seeing if there is somewhere to have sundowners when we get there.  So stand by.  We won't be long!!

JonNe'

Hopetown

May 24-25, 2012

Art, Brenda, Renne' and I decided to continue exploring Hopetown.  We were there 5 days, and honestly, it was my favorite community in the Bahamas.  We started off heading behind the marina to the Lighthouse at Elbow Cay.

Although the lighthouse was a welcome sight to ships approaching the Bahamas from the East, the residents of Elbow Cay, and consequently, Hopetown were NOT happy about the addition.

Built in 1864, members of the community tried many times to sabatoge the construction.  The men here made their living as "Wreckers", salvaging cargo from ships that inadvertently sailed on the reefs off Hopetown.  Competition was very keen for these cargoes, and the individual who FIRST arrived on a wreck was the one in charge of distribution of the cargo.  A very lucrative postion to be in.  St. James Methodist Church was built facing south on the top of the hill overlooking the coast.

It is said the minister was able to look seaward during services and would be the first to notify the congregation if there was a ship in trouble.  This caused immeasureable irritation among other community members when they realized the plan.

As you enter the lighthouse, you realize we are in a historical building.  101 steps lead the way to the top of the lighthouse. 

At 61, I was pleased there was a mid-stop where we were able to read about the burner that provides the light for the fresnel lens.

Amazing as it is, this is the original lens and burner built in 1864.  And the light for the lighthouse is lit every night for ships to navigate by.

Looking out from the lighthouse, these are the views from the balcony at the top:

South

Southeast

East

Who is this????

North

Northwest

From here, we headed farther down the coast toTom Curry Anchorage in Little Harbor.  

Hopetown Abaco until Saturday

Looks like the weather will finally begin to break on Saturday.  Art Flynn was out early to talk with the Dockmaster, Paul.  He beat me out there!!  We had to make sure we were okay to stay in the slips until the break in the weather.  Last night was very interesting.  I mentioned Gale strength wind was forecast, and we weren't disappointed.  The anamometer on the top of the mast indicated 44.6 kts out of the southwest.  We had doubled up on the dock lines, so we were glad we did that.  We were pretty stretched out.  Art and I attached a line between our boats, for two reasons:  1) to help keep them off the docks, and 2) to help stabilize both boats in the BLOW!!  The forecast today is 100% chance of rain with 15-25kts of wind.  We will stay here!

To give you an indication of the type of weather, while we were making the transit from Great Guana to Man 'O War the other day, we got a call from Art on Channel 17 about the below waterspout.  It was a first for me.  I had never seen one. 

Let's backtrack while I am interested in writing (LOL-Oh yeah!), let's get back to Man 'O War Cay for a few minutes.  The Cay was very popular for boat building.  We had a wonderful conversation and tour with Hartley Albury, of his boat building shed.  This guy has been building these sailing skiffs for 37 years. 

I have to say, I was so engrossed in his explanations and techniques that I neglected to take other pics.  I was so disappointed as I was looking through my pics.  What a most interesting conversation.  He has two boats going simultaneously, the other in another building. 

Renne' spent a bit of time talking to Hartley's brother, Jeff, who owns and runs the local grocery store.  He had many anecdotes about the family line back to the loyalists of the 13 colonies who abandoned all they had to move to the Bahamas during the Revolutionary War.  Brenda Flynn, also is interested in all of the Roberts in the Abacos, as she is a Roberts and part of that family line disappeared about that time.  She is hoping to find a link here.

We also see many Albury 23 Runabouts all over the Abacos:

These are built here in Man 'O War also, and I really enjoyed watching these guys.  I would love to spend a few days learning from both of these shops.  Renne's sensitivity to chemicals made it impossible for her to stay around, so I had to catch up with her a few minutes later.

We found the local homes to be fascinating, and each Cay has a very distinct atmosphere and style.

We thought you might like to see the sunset from Man 'O War Cay.  Renne' was taking pictures and missed, again, the green flash that happened.  One of these days, she will just watch the sunset and not worry about some of the other things happening!  LOL!

Hopetown Abaco is a very quaint and very well maintained community!   This place is packed right now with boats in marinas and on mooring balls, due to foul weather over these past few days.

The real difference are the houses here.  Although many of them are lease houses for visitors, the variety of colors and splendid care these houses receive makes this the most intriguing of all the Cays we have seen to date.

And lastly, I have long been an enthusiast of the HMS Bounty and Captain William Bligh.  I have actually been at the helm of the BOUNTY used in the Mel Gibson movie while sailing Sidney Harbor under almost full sail.  I have been aboard the BOUNTY used in the Clark Gable movie when she was in St. Petersburg, Fl, and I have been to the brownstone home of Adm William Bligh in London, England.  Yesterday, I had the thrill of actually seeing one of the breadfruit trees brought back by Bligh on his second trip to Tahiti aboard the HMS Providence in 1793.  That completes the sides of the square of events for me.  What a thrill for an early American/English Naval history fan .

So, we will see if the forecast comes true today.  We are making water so we will have full tanks before we leave.  I need to get some diesel aboard also.  So make plans to meet us this afternoon for Sundowners.  We will save some snacks for you.  CYA then!!

JonNe'