Thursday, July 12, 2012

Little Harbor to Spanish Wells

May 26-30, 2012

When we left Little Harbor, Abacos, Art and Brenda were listening to the local net on the VHF, based out of Marsh Harbor.  They first give the weather locally and then take observations from around the Abacos for boats and businesses to get an idea of what each community is seeing outside their windows as far as winds, surf, and rain is concerned.  As Pete's Pub responded, Art heard Pete state he had seen two sailboats depart the anchorage and head out into the Northwest Providence Channel, and they were doing fine.  He was referring to the condition of the swells that might impede progress (they can be pretty brutal under certain circumstances).  That was us!


The above picture is the last of the coast of the Abacos as we departed the inlet to Little Harbor. 

Winds were 20kts from the South, so once again, we were headed directly into the wind for 50nm!!  ARGGH!  What was interesting to me was the depth.  We traveled over areas that were 15,000 feet deep.  When we arrived at Spanish Wells Harbor, we still had 6,000 feet below us a mile off shore.

When we arrived at Royal Island Harbor, we had read it had been the site of a $120 Million project by Roger Staubach and Emmett Smith (Former Dallas Cowboys) as Venture Capitalists to build a 5-Star resort and Golf Course-that was 10 years ago.  It failed miserably!  The still, however, have a guard that monitors the property. 

We were there one night.  Art and Brenda decided not to stay there and moved across the bay to Jacks Bluff Settlement.  We joined them on the 27th.


We were 2.2nm from Spanish Wells and the four of us decided to take the dinghy trip over to see the town.  We decided right there we would do what ever we could to avoid a 2.2nm trip in the dinghy again!  It sure seems to be a VERY LONG WAY!

Spanish Wells is very definately a fishing village.  It is often the first stop south from the Abacos and the last stop north for boaters heading for the Abacos and on to return to the US at the end of the season.




We spent lunch talking with some younger local residents.  These fishing boats go out for six weeks at a time diving for "crawfish" - actually spiny lobsters.  The divers descend to 100 feet free diving in all weather.  Not something I could do!!


We spent the next day at Jack's Bluff.  The settlement has been in existance for 100 years, however, it was the base for the laborers who worked on the resort and golf course across the harbor.




From Bluff Settlement, we motored back around the harbor to Current Cut.  This is one of three inlets for transiting from the Northwest Providence Channel to Eleuthra Sound.  At maximum, the current flows at about 5kts.  We anchored off the shoreline about 1/2nm from the mouth of the inlet and a hundred yards off the shore.


We asked a local lady for directions to a store.  It turned out to be a new friend, Tonja Hammond, from Waco, Texas.  Her husband is a local physician in Texas, and she was finishing her vacation. 


 She was gracious enough to take the four of us to Elvina's to listen to local muscians, however, it was not to be.  So we went on to Hatchett Bay for dinner.  Shoot, it was a 60 minute car ride from the boat that night.  We had a ball.  Sundowners were great though!

The next morning, we departed just prior to slack tide to get through Current Cut with the current just slightly against us.  That was good, as it provided resistance and improved our steering ability.  I would NOT have wanted to do that with a stronger opposing current.

So on to Hatchett Bay, and from there Rock Sound Harbor.  Cya when we get there!

JonNe'


Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Little Harbor, Abacos

May 25-26

We moved south from Hopetown to Little Harbor.


 This is a remote community on the north shore of the Northwest Providence Channel.  Randolph Johnston arrived here in 1951 and built his home and bronze lost wax foundry here.  It really hasn't changed that much since then, except to add a few additional houses here and Pete's Pub!  We anchored outside of the harbor because it is too shallow for JonNe' to enter. 

So it was back to the dinghy for both boats.  We arrived at Pete's Pub just in time to order dinner at the pig roast.  We do enjoy these!  First Nipper's, then here! 


And of course there is never a shortage of our favorite drinks:  Kahlik Beer for me and Vodka, water, and cranberry juice for Renne'!


The historical significance of this place is the foundry started by Randolph Johnston and carried on by his son, Peter.  Both have been exceptionally talented artists:
 Pouring the castings

Castings being cooled and stored




They talk about the white beaches, but to be honest with you, we didn't find much other than coral.  It really didn't beckon us to stay very long.




On the morning of the 26th, we departed the Abacos headed south to Spanish Wells and Eleuthra.  We will look forward to seeing if there is somewhere to have sundowners when we get there.  So stand by.  We won't be long!!

JonNe'

Hopetown

May 24-25, 2012

Art, Brenda, Renne' and I decided to continue exploring Hopetown.  We were there 5 days, and honestly, it was my favorite community in the Bahamas.  We started off heading behind the marina to the Lighthouse at Elbow Cay.


Although the lighthouse was a welcome sight to ships approaching the Bahamas from the East, the residents of Elbow Cay, and consequently, Hopetown were NOT happy about the addition.

Built in 1864, members of the community tried many times to sabatoge the construction.  The men here made their living as "Wreckers", salvaging cargo from ships that inadvertently sailed on the reefs off Hopetown.  Competition was very keen for these cargoes, and the individual who FIRST arrived on a wreck was the one in charge of distribution of the cargo.  A very lucrative postion to be in.  St. James Methodist Church was built facing south on the top of the hill overlooking the coast.



It is said the minister was able to look seaward during services and would be the first to notify the congregation if there was a ship in trouble.  This caused immeasureable irritation among other community members when they realized the plan.

As you enter the lighthouse, you realize we are in a historical building.  101 steps lead the way to the top of the lighthouse. 

At 61, I was pleased there was a mid-stop where we were able to read about the burner that provides the light for the fresnel lens.



Amazing as it is, this is the original lens and burner built in 1864.  And the light for the lighthouse is lit every night for ships to navigate by.

Looking out from the lighthouse, these are the views from the balcony at the top:
South

Southeast

East

Who is this????

North
Northwest

From here, we headed farther down the coast toTom Curry Anchorage in Little Harbor.